More Questions to ask

Wood Finishes?

1. Clear coated with varnish (works quite well and is easily amended/repaired if scratched.) Stained first, then clear coated: Also works quite well, and gives a little variation on a theme. Plus, the stain levels out the variations in wood grain/coloration.

2. Polyurethane: Similar in many ways to varnish, except... Doesn't mix with varnish (is using varnish, repair with varnish. If using poly-, repair with poly-.) Varnish mellows (yellows - ambers) with age. Poly- stays the same. Some people like that change in varnish, others do not. Poly and Varnish can both be repaired using the same materials.

3. Painted: Oil, oil, oil. Need I say more. Use only oil based primer and paints on wood. You'll be much more satisfied and the finish will last longer and stand up to use/abuse.

4. Oil (such as tung oil, linseed oil, etc.) Does anyone use these any more? Gives a fine, luxurious finish that needs regular attention.

5. What about refinishing? For example: Windows that were originally stained/varnished and have weathered to the point of having no varnish remaining. 1. Sand nicely (a fine - 150 grit) sandpaper and a sanding sponge work great. Also, use a 5-in-1 tool (or an 8-in-1, 11-in-1, we've gotten as far as 13-in-1) for scraping and cleaning crevices. Then finish, such as re-staining, re-varnishing. Or, prime and then paint (oil based) with a light sanding in between coats.

Decks

Decks basically have three parts:
1. Foundation (usually concrete piers) but sometimes just a block on the ground with posts to hold the structure up.
2. Framing (usually treated lumber)
3. Decking (Redwood and Cedar the most common on older decks, with Redwood pretty much non-existent in today's world) Composite materials have made great advances in technology and are becoming nearly the new norm. Treated decking works but is so loaded with preservatives that when it dries, it shrinks incredibly and has a tendency to twist.

Deck Repairs:
1. Remove and replace a broken board.
2. Remove and replace a rotted board (or two.)
3. Replace the railing system.
4. Replace the decking entirely.
5. Replace the entire deck.

Most decks have an expected life span of about 15-20 years. The life can be extended by keeping the deck free of debris (which holds water, which shortens the life of the deck.) One or two boards to be replaced is not a problem. Several boards needing replacement is asking for some serious considerations. Rotted boards is also suggesting rotted framing.

Call if you have any questions.
952-292-6850 and ask for Mike

It Must Be Monday

How can you tell if a wall is a bearing wall?
You need to look at what a wall is holding (or not holding) to know if it's a bearing wall.
Usually looking in the basement (if you have one) will allow you to see some, if not all, of the main floor floor joists. Usually these are resting on an outside wall and then meet somewhere in the middle. The American Rambler home is built as a long hallway with a wall down the center to hold the floor and ceiling joists.
Homes that aren't built this simply still, usually, have a center wall that holds up the floor joists.
Recently (well, actually in the past 20 years) has seen great development in using engineered floor systems (I joists, Engineered trusses). This allows for much greater spans without the need for a central bearing wall.

The second place to look for bearing conditions is to stick your head up into the attic. Most homes built before the use of roof trusses will usually have rafters (2x6 or 2x8 are the most common.) Also visible, perhaps underneath the insulation (wear a mask to avoid breathing in a pile of nasty dusts) should be the ceiling joists. These generally will meet on that same center wall (or on the second floor) still going in the same direction as the floor joists on the first floor.

In a remodeling project, one of the aspects of a home we try to understand is the "How was it built?" to decide how best to proceed with any project.

Fix-it Friday

How to fix a sagging door:

Materials:
3" screws (deck screws work well)

Tools:
Drill (with a bit to match deck screw)

Steps:
1. Take out the center screw in the top hinge of the door that goes into the door jamb.
2. Replace it with the 3" deck screw.
3. Tighten screw until the door frames just begins to move.
4. Close door.
5. Open door. If door still sags (sticks) tighten screw 1/4 turn - 1/2 turn at a time. The 3" screw will bite into the stud behind the door frame and pull the door top over and usually does the trick to make the door hang properly.

5 Questions to ask your contractor:

1. Are you licensed? The answer must be yes, followed by the state license number which can then be checked online to make sure, to know, your contractor is current in all aspects of State Law.
2. Do you have any references? Yes. Here they are.
3. Should I get a second estimate? Yes. You should actually get three (or, perhaps 4) to make sure everyone is in line.
4. What is the difference between structural problems and cosmetic ones? I will show you and explain what is, and isn't going on.
5. What is the best use of my money for my home? Remodeling (and building new) is all about budget and needs, followed by taste and enjoyment. Structurally, your home needs to be sound. Cosmetically, you have many choices and decisions to make.